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Your video about determining what rodent is in the attic was the best ever, thank you. Sadly, I have rats as indicated by the droppings. I think I’ve found the 2″ hole they use and my question is, how many times does a rat need to leave the property to get food/water? Will there ALWAYS be droppings next to the hole under the eves? Dang, the local pest control companies don’t deal with attic problems here, so its up to me. Thanks so much.

There will most likely be droppings appearing over and over as long as rodents are using the area. As for what to do? Right now, I recommend reading through our RAT CONTROL ARTICLE where you’ll learn various control methods. In the article you’ll learn the best method to control this pest is to live trap them out. Based on the fact that you know where their entrance hole is located and you see plenty of droppings, it should be easy to catch them.

Just set out one of our LT5518RD LIVE TRAPS at this spot baited with some PECAN PASTE and you should catch them quickly. And if you have a pet or bird seed, be sure to add some to the set as this will no doubt get them to enter that much faster.

Now every time you catch one you should then remove all their droppings and reset the trap. Once you get to the point where there are no new droppings appearing and no rat in the trap for two weeks or more, you can proceed to sanitize the attic, the outside area around the entrance hole and then lastly, proceed with doing some exclusion by sealing up the hole.

To sanitize the hole, you’ll want to spray down the area with NNZ we discuss in the article. By neutralizing their scent, you’re insuring more won’t find their way inside so this is very important and needs to be done.

As for how often do they leave and forage? Usually every evening/night. But as our article explains, females return daily too. Males, on the other hand, will many times use many nest locations and only return every few days to your home so don’t expect consistent activity and then be led to think they’re gone. In fact this is why you need to wait at least 2 weeks before sealing up any holes.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Live Trap: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/cage/live-trap-5-x-5-x-18

Pecan Paste: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/lure/pecan-paste

NNz:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz

Rat Article: http://www.roof-rat-control.com/rat-control

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I’m a previous purchaser, but need clarification before I make another purchase.

Products: Your web site shows two rat zappers; A) classic (822843) and B) Ultra (822851)

Questions:
1. Item A costs $50.00 each and B costs $65.00. Are the two units identical in size and construction?
2. Are the cases made out of plastic or metal?
3. If one rodent enters and is zapped, is the plate still charged and is capable of zapping a second rodent entering the enclosure?
4. Where is the bait placed?

Regarding the Classic Blue Rat Zapper #A that cost $50.00
5. Question: What are the advantages or disadvantages of buying the Classic versus the Ultra?

Appreciate if you provide answers that are keyed to each number of the questions posed: (1-5).

Thank your,
D.W.

Here are my answers…

1) The two units are close to being equal in size and shape. The Ultra, because it houses larger batteries, is slightly bigger and bulkier.

2) Mostly they are plastic with some metal inside. Mind you this is mainly for electrical current and not structurally needed.

3) Single “kill” at a time; once “contact” is achieved and the trap goes through it’s electrical circuit cycle, it will effectively be “off”. It will then need to be emptied and reset.

4) Bait is placed in the “back” of the device which is based on the fact that it only has one side entry point. To bait properly, lure will be placed through the side entrance and all the way to the back of the device onto a small “safe” area.

5) The Classic is the old original which runs on less power and is fine for small animals. If you have a multitude of animal sizes you will be targeting, the ability to use different batteries will enable you to use power based on target animals. The Ultra uses the larger, longer lasting batteries but this will be it’s only choice of power. Quite frankly I see no reason why anyone would choose the Classic but if you are certain you’ll only need either for “light” duty, the Classic will be do the job fine. But for commercial or high demand use, the Ultra is best suited.

Hope this helps but if not, please give us a call at 1.800.877.7290 and we’ll be glad to discuss any more questions or concerns at that time.

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You just have so many items and reading so I will simply ask a question. I have been having critters of unknown types chewing on my ac hoses under the house. They nest in and around the heating and cooling ducts and vents. I can not crawl under the house but is there something general I could use through a garden sprayer or apply to perimeter of house that wont wash away? Thanks for your help.

I suspect you have some kind of rat though it could be a shrew or vole. Without knowing for sure, making a specific recommendation is tough. That being said, there some things you can do.

First, you could treat the hoses and pipes with some 4-THE-BIRDS LIQUID which would effectively stop the chewing immediately. This product is odorless but something no animal can tolerate. Where applied, they will stay away.

Second, I would set some food out in the area like bird food or pet food (if you have a dog or cat, either of their food would suffice). If this “animal” takes the offering, I would then say to get a live trap to catch the ones living inside your home. Once these are removed, you could then find their access points and seal these holes up to prevent more of this animal from coming into your home. Clearly you have a problem with something entering and my guess is there is some kind of food motivating them to get inside. Trap out what you have now before you start sealing up entry points; once you are sure all the current ones active are removed you can do the closure needed to keep new ones from getting inside.

Please call on our toll free 1.800.877.7290 if you have further questions.

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I see what I think are rat burrows in my crawl space. There are holes I’m seeing in the soil, about 3 inches wide, and trails which seem to be mostly against the foundation wall leading around two sides in the space. It looks like whatever is coming out of the holes is walking around down there and then coming up into the house!! I haven’t seen anything inside but they must be somewhere. What can I do?

What you’re describing does indeed sound like a rat. Norway rats are most likely to burrow or dig tunnels like you’re describing and they typically will forage up into the living area of the home if given the chance. I suggest you leave everything as is and trap them out.

To start trapping, it would be best if you were able to find or discover where they might be feeding. Typically rats will take advantage of bird seed or pet food. If you have either in the home, do a good inspection where you’re keeping it. Chances are your little unwanted friend is visiting this area and that’s where you will want to place out the rat trap. Look for droppings or other signs.

If you are unable to find any such location, I suggest you place some bird seed or pet food down in the crawl space, as close to the burrows as you can, to first make sure they are active. If you find this placement gets taken, set up one of our rat live traps with the same food in it as bait. In theory, you should be able to trap out all that are living in this area within a few days. Once removed, you can then close up all the tunnels by using dirt and a shovel or something to collapse them where visible. After that, inspect them weekly for a month to make sure they don’t reappear. If you don’t see any in a month, inspect the crawl space quarterly for a year to insure new rats don’t arrive. Since some found their way into the home it’s likely others will unless you set up some rat repellent around the outside of the building but don’t do this till you are sure the ones currently active have all been removed. As explained in our rat control article, the scent left by active rats will tend to attract new ones for a long time.

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I was looking at you roof rat trap selection and I’m trying to figure out which would be best for my situation. I’ve got several up in my attick and I don’t know if I should live trap or kill trap them. What do you suggest?

As our online roof rat article explains, using a kill trap is generally only effective when you’ve got 1-2 animals to trap. This is because rats will become trap shy when they see other rats dead in any kill trap. If you suspect there are more than two rats in the attic, use one of the rat trap live cages to insure trapped rats don’t become suspect of what you’re using. Our live traps will catch rat after rat as long as you fill the trap with seed when making the set. Trapped roof rats should be relocated or destroyed to insure they don’t come back. Once the active population is removed, you can consider sealing off the attic to further rat invasions.