target animals

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I see the line of rodent zappers you carry but I don’t think I need one this big. After reading your article I’m pretty sure I have mice and not rats in my kitchen. Do you have a scaled down smaller version for mice?

The RAT ZAPPER line will work fine on mice. If you are unsure of just what rodent is active in your home, we always suggest going with the larger size since it will usually work on any animal that can enter. If you are sure mice are active and have a limited area to deploy the device, go with the MOUSE ZAPPER. It will kill any mouse or shrew instantly and has an entrance that makes it pretty much impossible for non target animals to get inside. The following spotlight video goes over all the details you’ll need to know to set one up.

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I’m a previous purchaser, but need clarification before I make another purchase.

Products: Your web site shows two rat zappers; A) classic (822843) and B) Ultra (822851)

Questions:
1. Item A costs $50.00 each and B costs $65.00. Are the two units identical in size and construction?
2. Are the cases made out of plastic or metal?
3. If one rodent enters and is zapped, is the plate still charged and is capable of zapping a second rodent entering the enclosure?
4. Where is the bait placed?

Regarding the Classic Blue Rat Zapper #A that cost $50.00
5. Question: What are the advantages or disadvantages of buying the Classic versus the Ultra?

Appreciate if you provide answers that are keyed to each number of the questions posed: (1-5).

Thank your,
D.W.

Here are my answers…

1) The two units are close to being equal in size and shape. The Ultra, because it houses larger batteries, is slightly bigger and bulkier.

2) Mostly they are plastic with some metal inside. Mind you this is mainly for electrical current and not structurally needed.

3) Single “kill” at a time; once “contact” is achieved and the trap goes through it’s electrical circuit cycle, it will effectively be “off”. It will then need to be emptied and reset.

4) Bait is placed in the “back” of the device which is based on the fact that it only has one side entry point. To bait properly, lure will be placed through the side entrance and all the way to the back of the device onto a small “safe” area.

5) The Classic is the old original which runs on less power and is fine for small animals. If you have a multitude of animal sizes you will be targeting, the ability to use different batteries will enable you to use power based on target animals. The Ultra uses the larger, longer lasting batteries but this will be it’s only choice of power. Quite frankly I see no reason why anyone would choose the Classic but if you are certain you’ll only need either for “light” duty, the Classic will be do the job fine. But for commercial or high demand use, the Ultra is best suited.

Hope this helps but if not, please give us a call at 1.800.877.7290 and we’ll be glad to discuss any more questions or concerns at that time.

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Can Ropel be sprayed on fan belts in cars?  Am having problems with rodents in car engine.

Ropel is a bad tasting agent that can be sprayed on many surfaces with the hopes that target animals will find the taste unpleasant enough to stop their chewing. It’s good to use on fan belts to stop rodents that are gnawing and doing damage. If this doesn’t stop them, try one of the Ultra Sound devices we have featured in our roof rat control article. We’ve had good results using them for this exact application.

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Hello,

In my rodent control experience, mice are easy to trap but rats don’t go into boxes.  Do you have success with rats going inside these plastic cages that electrocute them?

Second, how long does it take to electrocute them – is it a slow process?  Thank you so much.

First, we have had great success getting both rats and mice to enter the electrocution devices. One trick that can be used is to set some pet food or bird seed at the entry way without having the device activated. Leave it out this way till the target animals remove your offering. Place some more out but this time place it just inside the device. After they remove this next portion with the trap not activated, set out some more food with it still turned off but this time place the food all the way to the back of the box. We have found they will always enter. Once the food is taken this deep in the box, you can then set some more of the food out but this time do so with the electrocution device armed and ready for action.

Second, you can see our “simulated kill” video which shows in real time the entire process from start to finish.