rat

0

Your video about determining what rodent is in the attic was the best ever, thank you. Sadly, I have rats as indicated by the droppings. I think I’ve found the 2″ hole they use and my question is, how many times does a rat need to leave the property to get food/water? Will there ALWAYS be droppings next to the hole under the eves? Dang, the local pest control companies don’t deal with attic problems here, so its up to me. Thanks so much.

There will most likely be droppings appearing over and over as long as rodents are using the area. As for what to do? Right now, I recommend reading through our RAT CONTROL ARTICLE where you’ll learn various control methods. In the article you’ll learn the best method to control this pest is to live trap them out. Based on the fact that you know where their entrance hole is located and you see plenty of droppings, it should be easy to catch them.

Just set out one of our LT5518RD LIVE TRAPS at this spot baited with some PECAN PASTE and you should catch them quickly. And if you have a pet or bird seed, be sure to add some to the set as this will no doubt get them to enter that much faster.

Now every time you catch one you should then remove all their droppings and reset the trap. Once you get to the point where there are no new droppings appearing and no rat in the trap for two weeks or more, you can proceed to sanitize the attic, the outside area around the entrance hole and then lastly, proceed with doing some exclusion by sealing up the hole.

To sanitize the hole, you’ll want to spray down the area with NNZ we discuss in the article. By neutralizing their scent, you’re insuring more won’t find their way inside so this is very important and needs to be done.

As for how often do they leave and forage? Usually every evening/night. But as our article explains, females return daily too. Males, on the other hand, will many times use many nest locations and only return every few days to your home so don’t expect consistent activity and then be led to think they’re gone. In fact this is why you need to wait at least 2 weeks before sealing up any holes.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Live Trap: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/cage/live-trap-5-x-5-x-18

Pecan Paste: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/lure/pecan-paste

NNz:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz

Rat Article: http://www.roof-rat-control.com/rat-control

0

Rats will readily move into attics, basements, wall voids and any place where they find shelter and a good meal. Pet food, bird seed and vegetable gardens can all attract rats to any house. And once they find a good place to feed, it won’t be long till they move inside. If you’ve got rats in the attic, on your deck or suspect they’re…. READ MORE ON ROOF RAT CONTROL

0

I’m a previous purchaser, but need clarification before I make another purchase.

Products: Your web site shows two rat zappers; A) classic (822843) and B) Ultra (822851)

Questions:
1. Item A costs $50.00 each and B costs $65.00. Are the two units identical in size and construction?
2. Are the cases made out of plastic or metal?
3. If one rodent enters and is zapped, is the plate still charged and is capable of zapping a second rodent entering the enclosure?
4. Where is the bait placed?

Regarding the Classic Blue Rat Zapper #A that cost $50.00
5. Question: What are the advantages or disadvantages of buying the Classic versus the Ultra?

Appreciate if you provide answers that are keyed to each number of the questions posed: (1-5).

Thank your,
D.W.

Here are my answers…

1) The two units are close to being equal in size and shape. The Ultra, because it houses larger batteries, is slightly bigger and bulkier.

2) Mostly they are plastic with some metal inside. Mind you this is mainly for electrical current and not structurally needed.

3) Single “kill” at a time; once “contact” is achieved and the trap goes through it’s electrical circuit cycle, it will effectively be “off”. It will then need to be emptied and reset.

4) Bait is placed in the “back” of the device which is based on the fact that it only has one side entry point. To bait properly, lure will be placed through the side entrance and all the way to the back of the device onto a small “safe” area.

5) The Classic is the old original which runs on less power and is fine for small animals. If you have a multitude of animal sizes you will be targeting, the ability to use different batteries will enable you to use power based on target animals. The Ultra uses the larger, longer lasting batteries but this will be it’s only choice of power. Quite frankly I see no reason why anyone would choose the Classic but if you are certain you’ll only need either for “light” duty, the Classic will be do the job fine. But for commercial or high demand use, the Ultra is best suited.

Hope this helps but if not, please give us a call at 1.800.877.7290 and we’ll be glad to discuss any more questions or concerns at that time.

0

I noticed some large droppings on my barbecue grill a few weeks ago. I didn’t know what left them but I cleaned the grill out and was hesitatant to even use it. Then I found them again!! Whatever it is seems to like something up in the grill and is grossing me out thinking what they are doing on the grill. Do I need to throw it away and what would crawl up into my grill looking for food?

The droppings you are finding are most likely being left by a roof rat. As explained in our ROOF RAT CONTROL article, they are resourceful and will eat almost anything a human would eat. Additionally, the odor from any grill will surely lure roof rats active in the area to at least investigate what it is that smells so good. Roof rats commonly feed on nut trees and bird feeders and if any are close by are it highly likely they are in the vicinity. This means it will only be a matter of time before a rat or two made it’s way to your grill and it sounds like this has happened already.

At this time I suggest you do a good inspection of the area to see where there might be a localized rodent population that’s active. If this is on your property, I suggest you diminish the activity by using a LIVE TRAP. Failure to do so will almost certainly lead to more activity on the grill and ultimately activity in the home.

As for the grill, I would refrain from using it till the problem is resolved. You could spend some more time cleaning it but I’m afraid until you remove the local rodent activity, they’ll just come back over and over thus contaminating the grill every time they walk over it. Rats carry a lot of disease and when they move on or around objects like grills they deficate and urinate to leave scent trails. So unless you remove them for good, the grill will just get contaminated over and over since the smell of food it releases will cause the rats to keep coming back. When you are sure the problem has been resolved, a good cleaning with the NNZ will remove the scent trails which in turn will make it a lot less likely that any rodents will find it so easily in the future. Of course you can throw it away but remember, if you don’t keep the new one clean and free of odor, it too will attract rodent activity at some point.

0

I think I have a rat in my attic. I can hear sounds at night and it seems like they might be gnawing at something. I’m afraid to go up there but I can’t afford any service company to come out. I don’t want to use any poison anyway and that’s all they want to so I guess I have to do something myself. What can I do?

First, review the online Rat Control article we have posted. We have a whole section on using live traps which are actually quite effective for rats. You will have to get up in the attic to set them up unless you know of some place in the living area they are visiting. If you have such a place, you can set out a trap there. Otherwise, the only way you’ll get control of this problem is to get some traps set up in the areas where they are most active and for now, that sounds like the attic.

0

I was looking at you roof rat trap selection and I’m trying to figure out which would be best for my situation. I’ve got several up in my attick and I don’t know if I should live trap or kill trap them. What do you suggest?

As our online roof rat article explains, using a kill trap is generally only effective when you’ve got 1-2 animals to trap. This is because rats will become trap shy when they see other rats dead in any kill trap. If you suspect there are more than two rats in the attic, use one of the rat trap live cages to insure trapped rats don’t become suspect of what you’re using. Our live traps will catch rat after rat as long as you fill the trap with seed when making the set. Trapped roof rats should be relocated or destroyed to insure they don’t come back. Once the active population is removed, you can consider sealing off the attic to further rat invasions.

0

I’ve been hearing noise in my attic for the past two weeks and finally went up there to see what was happening. I found lots of black droppings all over and think its from a rat. What kind of rat can climb all the way up to my attic?

Most rats are good climbers. Roof rats in particular are very good and it’s most likely this is what you’ve got since they love attics. The best thing to do right now would be to start trapping them out as explained in our roof rat control article.  Just don’t start cleaning the area until you’ve got them removed and know for sure there isn’t any still up there! This way you’ll be able to keep them where they’ve been and in the end, be able to get control that much faster. If you disturb the area, you might end up moving them to some other location in the home that won’t be so easy to access. I suggest you review our online article for more details…