we have had an ongoing rat problem since we've moved in to this house (here in atlanta!) there are places in the house on the carpet where rats have left their "scent" shall we say…. and one of these being in the room where my newborn will sleep. nice. do you have an organic spray that will neutralize the scent so they won't come back? our pest control company said that smell is so strong they come back to it…

Roof Rats will definitely create and use scent trails to navigate their way around. Their vision is limited but they have an amazing sense of smell and use it to the fullest potential as explained in our ROOF RAT CONTROL ARTICLE. In fact, it's clearly one of the biggest reasons why homes that get rodents once have a tendency to get them again; the lingering odors and scents are clearly an attractive nuisance and should be removed for long term rat control to truly be achieved.

If you check out our RODENT EQUIPMENT page, you'll find a section on ODOR CONTROL. In this section there are links for two products that will solve this problem. Both NNZ and N7C are organic and can safely be used in the home. These products don't mask or "clean up" anything. Essentially they break down and decompose the odor molecules that have been left behind. This decomposition process will morph the odor into another "scent" altogether and most importantly, one that roof rats will not interpret to be their own (and not detectable by humans). Of the two, I'd recommend the NNZ. It's the odorless version and best suited for inside applications where no smell is the desired end result.

Additionally, it would be ideal if you are able to peel back the carpet and get the treatment down under the rug as much as possible. If there is wood or cement under the carpet, there is no doubt some of the odor molecules embedded on this substrate as well. This means treating over the top of the carpet won't be nearly as direct as we like to make the application. In the end, the more direct you administer the NNZ,  the better the results you'll enjoy (and the faster they'll be noticeable). You may be able to achieve the same result by spraying over the carpet but there could be a impact on the carpet color since it will require a lot of water to get the NNZ down through the carpet. That means a good soaking and this process could alter or change the color of the rug. Avoid this altogether by treating under the carpet. After the initial application you can mist over the top of the carpet to ensure the carpet fibre's aren't harboring any scent.

For more information on the NNZ, check out the NNZ LABEL we've posted on line. And if you have further questions about how to do the job, please give us a call at 770-985-9392 during our normal business hours.

Great question! No doubt lots of people believe this to be the case. But is there any scientific research or testing to confirm or dispel this widespread urban legend? Not that we're aware of. However, we've done a little research on our own… And the results may surprise you!

First, one would think cats to be natural "ratters". It's common for cats to kill, retrieve and drag around small animals like mice, birds, lizards, rats, chipmunks and squirrels. But do all cats display this behavior? That would be a definite no. And what % of cats do? Anyone's guess. I think most don't have the chance to show they're capable of doing it and even the few that do aren't nearly as effective as their owners would like to think.

Which leads me to my next point. Most people who have pets like a dog or cat that routinely retrieve small animals are quick to point out their animal does this all the time. In these situations it becomes clear their pet is sometimes finding animals in their domain. In other words, for house cats that don't go outside, the rodents are clearly coming inside. And many times the cats are able to get their "prizes" several times a week. This leads us to believe the rodents are "co existing" with the predatory cat or dog. Seemingly they don't care! And for pets that venture off their land to seek their prey; we have found many of these pet owners to have an ongoing active rodent problem! In other words, we have customers that come to us confused because their pet hunts small animals yet they know they have a rodent infestation and can't understand how this could be.

All this mixed data leads us to believe that cats and dogs can and will hunt small animals. But once they became domesticated, this hunting behavior became something they didn't need to use to live or survive. That means it will be "fleeting" at best and not done to the level needed to provide true rodent control or pest elimination. And since we've seen case after case of rodents co existing with both dogs and cats that either don't care or do kill some of the unwanted small animals found in their domain, in neither case do the rats or mice active seem to care. In other words, the pet doesn't seem to deter or frighten the rodent away. Which explains why more than 50% of our customers with rodent problems own pets! One would think the two might be directly related but I'm pretty sure the relationship is more of a related "interest". And this interest seems to be food.

No doubt pet food (in all forms) is more of a rodent attractor than the pets are a rodent repeller. This we are 100% sure and base it upon 30+ years of data. As explained in our ROOF RAT CONTROL ARTICLE, pet food is very nutritious and will attract rodents from far away. So to answer your question, I'm 100% there are some cats that can "scare away rodents that are inside a house". But do all cats scare rodents and are all cats even interested? No way. And are all rodents afraid of cats or other pets? Nope. In fact, it seems as though they are able to gauge whether they should be frightened or not and when they detect a pet that might pose a hazard to them, the rodent will many times avoid the pet but still use the structure to some degree for either food or shelter. So even "rodent hunting pets" – or at least pets that show this trait strong enough to alert rodents to the fact they could be in trouble for hanging around – aren't able to keep rats or mice away for sure. In the end, this glaring fact means that if wish to keep your property and house rodent free, you'd best follow the guidelines and practices outlined in our rodent control article. Hope this answers your question!!

The homeowner apparently didn't realize the danger and just reset the circuit breaker. About 6 hours later the fire broke out. You can read the full the story here:

ATTIC FIRE CAUSED BY RODENTS?

In fact, rodents regularly chew on pipes, wires and just about anything attempting to grind down their teeth. As explained in our ROOF RAT CONTROL article, they do this instinctively. This is just one more reason why roof rats should not be tolerated in or around the home. Be sure to trap out local populations if you find them in or on your house using one of the methods detailed in our article.

Thank You, T.T.

ROPEL can be used on anything. The only issue we've seen is some discoloration when treating certain fabrics. I don't think this will be of any concern when treating under the hood of a car and over the years we've had people use it successfully to stop rats, mice and squirrels from chewing on their vehicles.

Regarding the repellent you ordered; I'm not sure if it will work on rats or mice. Designed for cats and dogs, we know it keeps them away. Though some people have tried it for rodents, I don't know if we have ever heard conclusively if it helped.

One thing we know that does work well is the TRANSONIC PRO ULTRA SOUND. It's got variable settings and works well on both rats and mice. Install one set up with a timer as described in the following video and I'm sure you'll be able to keep them away.

I have a dead rat in the refrigerator. We have looked under and behind and removed tile under appliance but cannot locate it. We think it is probably in the motor housing or up inside some insulation. We can't lay the refrigerator down without causing damage due to it's design and size. This is a new appliance. Do you have any suggestions on how to control the terrible odor?

Thanks

Rats and mice will many times seek out tight places to hide. Motor housings and the surrounding environment are prime locations and as the cold of winter sets in, rodents will come inside looking for these exact locations. They generally offer warmth and moisture as well as a secure location to keep them protected from predators and the harsh season outside. These same locations also have a lot of hazards including electrical and mechanical parts which can end a small rodents life abruptly.

When rats or mice die in an appliance such as a refrigerator, a bad odor will usually alert the homeowner of it's presence. At that point the dead rodent should be found and removed. If it cannot be found and removed, treating the motor and other components of the appliance can be done with some NNZ ODOR NEUTRALIZER. This product can be sprayed lightly over the housing, compartment and surrounding area. With any luck it will trickle down into key voids or spaces where the dead animal is nestled. Expect to repeat treatments daily till the carcass is decomposed.

If you have other rodent questions, consult our online RAT CONTROL ARTICLE or call us troll free at 1-800-877-7290.

The RAT ZAPPER line will work fine on mice. If you are unsure of just what rodent is active in your home, we always suggest going with the larger size since it will usually work on any animal that can enter. If you are sure mice are active and have a limited area to deploy the device, go with the MOUSE ZAPPER. It will kill any mouse or shrew instantly and has an entrance that makes it pretty much impossible for non target animals to get inside. The following spotlight video goes over all the details you'll need to know to set one up.

Live traps can be used most anywhere if the target animal is active and the trap is both secured and baited with something that will get the animal inside. The use of a live trap out in the open, where animals are foraging and running, can certainly work. The following image shows a good trap set on a slanted roof. In this situation, the targeted animals were leaving the attic from the corner so placement needed to be as close as possible to their exit hole.

The trap needed to be secured which can be done with nails or staples. The only warning here is that it's best to use silicone caulking when using anything to anchor the trap. Apply the silicone to the nail or screw when it's first installed. When the trap is removed, don't take out the nail or screw but instead drive it all the way in. The silicone previously applied will insure the hole is water tight and this practice will keep the roof water tight.

Live traps can be set most anywhere when targeting rats. The most important factor seems to be whether the location is where they are willing to feed. If you suspect you have roof rats or some other rodent active in a tree, chances are high they are finding food on it making live trapping a possibility.

Roof rats will commonly forage on trees which yield nuts such as acorn, pecan and walnut. From these trees they'll find their way onto rooftops and then inside the structure. If you are seeing activity in trees close to the home, make some live trap sets to help thin the local population. Failure to remove and relocate local activity close to the home will undoubtedly lead to some getting inside. Once inside they'll be harder to control. This picture shows a good tree set made with one of our a live traps.

Good traps to use for this set include our 5×5x16GREEN, LT5518RD and our 3.5X3.5.24REPEATER. All these models can be strapped to branches using plastic cable ties, nails or screws. They can also be anchored with more elaborate mounts like the one pictured above. This is actually a bird feeder mount which serves as a great "ledge" on which to rest a cage trap. Use some PECAN PASTE along with a good quantity of the nuts the host tree yields when baiting. This combination will both enable the rodents to find the trap quickly and give them good reason to enter.

Is this available in larger quantities?

MOUSE REPELLENT will generally last 1-3 months per application depending on the local environment where it's applied. Outside, it will usually dissipate over 1-2 months for sure. Even in dry climates. If the region where you plan on using it is moist or subject to a lot of rainfall, it may only last 1 month. If you intend on using it such a location, consider making the installation with GRANULE GUARDS to help protect the product and extend the length of time it's effective.

Inside applications out of direct rainfall and sunlight could last 3 months or longer. Be advised it will release a smell when used inside and can be detected but my guess is these substations aren't manned so it's probably not an issue.

The largest size currently is the 28 lb PAIL. But we also carry a snake repellent which has the same exact ingredients. This product is available in large 236 lb Tubs though we don't list this size on line in our cart. You can see the 28 lb pail and here are links to their respecitve labels:

SNAKE AWAY LABEL

RAT AWAY LABEL

As you can see, they are identical in composition. The large size is commonly acquired used by professionals who use it for various pest control services. It's the same exact material but just has a different target animal on the outside label. Cost per 236 lb tub is $400.00 but we do extend our 5% online ordering discount to call in orders for this big size which drops the price to $380.00 or $1.61 per lb compared to $3.39 per lb for the 28 lb tub.

Products: Your web site shows two rat zappers; A) classic (822843) and B) Ultra (822851)

Questions:
1. Item A costs $50.00 each and B costs $65.00. Are the two units identical in size and construction?
2. Are the cases made out of plastic or metal?
3. If one rodent enters and is zapped, is the plate still charged and is capable of zapping a second rodent entering the enclosure?
4. Where is the bait placed?

Regarding the Classic Blue Rat Zapper #A that cost $50.00
5. Question: What are the advantages or disadvantages of buying the Classic versus the Ultra?

Appreciate if you provide answers that are keyed to each number of the questions posed: (1-5).

Thank your,
D.W.

Here are my answers…

1) The two units are close to being equal in size and shape. The Ultra, because it houses larger batteries, is slightly bigger and bulkier.

2) Mostly they are plastic with some metal inside. Mind you this is mainly for electrical current and not structurally needed.

3) Single "kill" at a time; once "contact" is achieved and the trap goes through it's electrical circuit cycle, it will effectively be "off". It will then need to be emptied and reset.

4) Bait is placed in the "back" of the device which is based on the fact that it only has one side entry point. To bait properly, lure will be placed through the side entrance and all the way to the back of the device onto a small "safe" area.

5) The Classic is the old original which runs on less power and is fine for small animals. If you have a multitude of animal sizes you will be targeting, the ability to use different batteries will enable you to use power based on target animals. The Ultra uses the larger, longer lasting batteries but this will be it's only choice of power. Quite frankly I see no reason why anyone would choose the Classic but if you are certain you'll only need either for "light" duty, the Classic will be do the job fine. But for commercial or high demand use, the Ultra is best suited.

Hope this helps but if not, please give us a call at 1.800.877.7290 and we'll be glad to discuss any more questions or concerns at that time.