The RAT ZAPPER line will work fine on mice. If you are unsure of just what rodent is active in your home, we always suggest going with the larger size since it will usually work on any animal that can enter. If you are sure mice are active and have a limited area to deploy the device, go with the MOUSE ZAPPER. It will kill any mouse or shrew instantly and has an entrance that makes it pretty much impossible for non target animals to get inside. The following spotlight video goes over all the details you'll need to know to set one up.

Live traps can be used most anywhere if the target animal is active and the trap is both secured and baited with something that will get the animal inside. The use of a live trap out in the open, where animals are foraging and running, can certainly work. The following image shows a good trap set on a slanted roof. In this situation, the targeted animals were leaving the attic from the corner so placement needed to be as close as possible to their exit hole.

The trap needed to be secured which can be done with nails or staples. The only warning here is that it's best to use silicone caulking when using anything to anchor the trap. Apply the silicone to the nail or screw when it's first installed. When the trap is removed, don't take out the nail or screw but instead drive it all the way in. The silicone previously applied will insure the hole is water tight and this practice will keep the roof water tight.

Live traps can be set most anywhere when targeting rats. The most important factor seems to be whether the location is where they are willing to feed. If you suspect you have roof rats or some other rodent active in a tree, chances are high they are finding food on it making live trapping a possibility.

Roof rats will commonly forage on trees which yield nuts such as acorn, pecan and walnut. From these trees they'll find their way onto rooftops and then inside the structure. If you are seeing activity in trees close to the home, make some live trap sets to help thin the local population. Failure to remove and relocate local activity close to the home will undoubtedly lead to some getting inside. Once inside they'll be harder to control. This picture shows a good tree set made with one of our a live traps.

Good traps to use for this set include our 5x5x16GREEN, LT5518RD and our 3.5X3.5.24REPEATER. All these models can be strapped to branches using plastic cable ties, nails or screws. They can also be anchored with more elaborate mounts like the one pictured above. This is actually a bird feeder mount which serves as a great "ledge" on which to rest a cage trap. Use some PECAN PASTE along with a good quantity of the nuts the host tree yields when baiting. This combination will both enable the rodents to find the trap quickly and give them good reason to enter.

Products: Your web site shows two rat zappers; A) classic (822843) and B) Ultra (822851)

Questions:
1. Item A costs $50.00 each and B costs $65.00. Are the two units identical in size and construction?
2. Are the cases made out of plastic or metal?
3. If one rodent enters and is zapped, is the plate still charged and is capable of zapping a second rodent entering the enclosure?
4. Where is the bait placed?

Regarding the Classic Blue Rat Zapper #A that cost $50.00
5. Question: What are the advantages or disadvantages of buying the Classic versus the Ultra?

Appreciate if you provide answers that are keyed to each number of the questions posed: (1-5).

Thank your,
D.W.

Here are my answers…

1) The two units are close to being equal in size and shape. The Ultra, because it houses larger batteries, is slightly bigger and bulkier.

2) Mostly they are plastic with some metal inside. Mind you this is mainly for electrical current and not structurally needed.

3) Single "kill" at a time; once "contact" is achieved and the trap goes through it's electrical circuit cycle, it will effectively be "off". It will then need to be emptied and reset.

4) Bait is placed in the "back" of the device which is based on the fact that it only has one side entry point. To bait properly, lure will be placed through the side entrance and all the way to the back of the device onto a small "safe" area.

5) The Classic is the old original which runs on less power and is fine for small animals. If you have a multitude of animal sizes you will be targeting, the ability to use different batteries will enable you to use power based on target animals. The Ultra uses the larger, longer lasting batteries but this will be it's only choice of power. Quite frankly I see no reason why anyone would choose the Classic but if you are certain you'll only need either for "light" duty, the Classic will be do the job fine. But for commercial or high demand use, the Ultra is best suited.

Hope this helps but if not, please give us a call at 1.800.877.7290 and we'll be glad to discuss any more questions or concerns at that time.

In my rodent control experience, mice are easy to trap but rats don't go into boxes.  Do you have success with rats going inside these plastic cages that electrocute them?

Second, how long does it take to electrocute them – is it a slow process?  Thank you so much.

First, we have had great success getting both rats and mice to enter the electrocution devices. One trick that can be used is to set some pet food or bird seed at the entry way without having the device activated. Leave it out this way till the target animals remove your offering. Place some more out but this time place it just inside the device. After they remove this next portion with the trap not activated, set out some more food with it still turned off but this time place the food all the way to the back of the box. We have found they will always enter. Once the food is taken this deep in the box, you can then set some more of the food out but this time do so with the electrocution device armed and ready for action.

Second, you can see our "simulated kill" video which shows in real time the entire process from start to finish.