hi there,
we have had an ongoing rat problem since we've moved in to this house (here in atlanta!) there are places in the house on the carpet where rats have left their "scent" shall we say…. and one of these being in the room where my newborn will sleep. nice. do you have an organic spray that will neutralize the scent so they won't come back? our pest control company said that smell is so strong they come back to it…
Roof Rats will definitely create and use scent trails to navigate their way around. Their vision is limited but they have an amazing sense of smell and use it to the fullest potential as explained in our ROOF RAT CONTROL ARTICLE. In fact, it's clearly one of the biggest reasons why homes that get rodents once have a tendency to get them again; the lingering odors and scents are clearly an attractive nuisance and should be removed for long term rat control to truly be achieved.
If you check out our RODENT EQUIPMENT page, you'll find a section on ODOR CONTROL. In this section there are links for two products that will solve this problem. Both NNZ and N7C are organic and can safely be used in the home. These products don't mask or "clean up" anything. Essentially they break down and decompose the odor molecules that have been left behind. This decomposition process will morph the odor into another "scent" altogether and most importantly, one that roof rats will not interpret to be their own (and not detectable by humans). Of the two, I'd recommend the NNZ. It's the odorless version and best suited for inside applications where no smell is the desired end result.
Additionally, it would be ideal if you are able to peel back the carpet and get the treatment down under the rug as much as possible. If there is wood or cement under the carpet, there is no doubt some of the odor molecules embedded on this substrate as well. This means treating over the top of the carpet won't be nearly as direct as we like to make the application. In the end, the more direct you administer the NNZ, the better the results you'll enjoy (and the faster they'll be noticeable). You may be able to achieve the same result by spraying over the carpet but there could be a impact on the carpet color since it will require a lot of water to get the NNZ down through the carpet. That means a good soaking and this process could alter or change the color of the rug. Avoid this altogether by treating under the carpet. After the initial application you can mist over the top of the carpet to ensure the carpet fibre's aren't harboring any scent.
For more information on the NNZ, check out the NNZ LABEL we've posted on line. And if you have further questions about how to do the job, please give us a call at 770-985-9392 during our normal business hours.
Filed under rodent scent by 
I found your info very useful. I'm wondering, are cats helpful in scaring away rodents that are inside a house?
Great question! No doubt lots of people believe this to be the case. But is there any scientific research or testing to confirm or dispel this widespread urban legend? Not that we're aware of. However, we've done a little research on our own… And the results may surprise you!
First, one would think cats to be natural "ratters". It's common for cats to kill, retrieve and drag around small animals like mice, birds, lizards, rats, chipmunks and squirrels. But do all cats display this behavior? That would be a definite no. And what % of cats do? Anyone's guess. I think most don't have the chance to show they're capable of doing it and even the few that do aren't nearly as effective as their owners would like to think.
Which leads me to my next point. Most people who have pets like a dog or cat that routinely retrieve small animals are quick to point out their animal does this all the time. In these situations it becomes clear their pet is sometimes finding animals in their domain. In other words, for house cats that don't go outside, the rodents are clearly coming inside. And many times the cats are able to get their "prizes" several times a week. This leads us to believe the rodents are "co existing" with the predatory cat or dog. Seemingly they don't care! And for pets that venture off their land to seek their prey; we have found many of these pet owners to have an ongoing active rodent problem! In other words, we have customers that come to us confused because their pet hunts small animals yet they know they have a rodent infestation and can't understand how this could be.
All this mixed data leads us to believe that cats and dogs can and will hunt small animals. But once they became domesticated, this hunting behavior became something they didn't need to use to live or survive. That means it will be "fleeting" at best and not done to the level needed to provide true rodent control or pest elimination. And since we've seen case after case of rodents co existing with both dogs and cats that either don't care or do kill some of the unwanted small animals found in their domain, in neither case do the rats or mice active seem to care. In other words, the pet doesn't seem to deter or frighten the rodent away. Which explains why more than 50% of our customers with rodent problems own pets! One would think the two might be directly related but I'm pretty sure the relationship is more of a related "interest". And this interest seems to be food.
No doubt pet food (in all forms) is more of a rodent attractor than the pets are a rodent repeller. This we are 100% sure and base it upon 30+ years of data. As explained in our ROOF RAT CONTROL ARTICLE, pet food is very nutritious and will attract rodents from far away. So to answer your question, I'm 100% there are some cats that can "scare away rodents that are inside a house". But do all cats scare rodents and are all cats even interested? No way. And are all rodents afraid of cats or other pets? Nope. In fact, it seems as though they are able to gauge whether they should be frightened or not and when they detect a pet that might pose a hazard to them, the rodent will many times avoid the pet but still use the structure to some degree for either food or shelter. So even "rodent hunting pets" – or at least pets that show this trait strong enough to alert rodents to the fact they could be in trouble for hanging around – aren't able to keep rats or mice away for sure. In the end, this glaring fact means that if wish to keep your property and house rodent free, you'd best follow the guidelines and practices outlined in our rodent control article. Hope this answers your question!!
Filed under cat by
Firefighters say rodents may be the reason a fire broke out Thursday morning in Chico. The fire was called in by a neighbor around 7:45 AM after they saw smoke and flames coming from the upper level of the home. The resident told firefighters he heard a scurrying noise in the attic a few hours earlier, around 1:30 in the morning, and then the power went out. Roof rats, squirrels and mice will commonly chew power lines so it wouldn't be a surprise if they indirectly caused a short.
The homeowner apparently didn't realize the danger and just reset the circuit breaker. About 6 hours later the fire broke out. You can read the full the story here:
In fact, rodents regularly chew on pipes, wires and just about anything attempting to grind down their teeth. As explained in our ROOF RAT CONTROL article, they do this instinctively. This is just one more reason why roof rats should not be tolerated in or around the home. Be sure to trap out local populations if you find them in or on your house using one of the methods detailed in our article.
Filed under Blog by
Hi,
I am not able to have rodent repellent shipped out here to California so I am in the process of receiving granule repellent for cats and dogs. Is this gonna work on rats? And can Ropel be sprayed on fan belts in cars? Am having problems with rodents in car engine.
Thank You, T.T.
ROPEL can be used on anything. The only issue we've seen is some discoloration when treating certain fabrics. I don't think this will be of any concern when treating under the hood of a car and over the years we've had people use it successfully to stop rats, mice and squirrels from chewing on their vehicles.
Regarding the repellent you ordered; I'm not sure if it will work on rats or mice. Designed for cats and dogs, we know it keeps them away. Though some people have tried it for rodents, I don't know if we have ever heard conclusively if it helped.
One thing we know that does work well is the TRANSONIC PRO ULTRA SOUND. It's got variable settings and works well on both rats and mice. Install one set up with a timer as described in the following video and I'm sure you'll be able to keep them away.
Filed under chewing by
Aloha,
I have a dead rat in the refrigerator. We have looked under and behind and removed tile under appliance but cannot locate it. We think it is probably in the motor housing or up inside some insulation. We can't lay the refrigerator down without causing damage due to it's design and size. This is a new appliance. Do you have any suggestions on how to control the terrible odor?
Thanks
Rats and mice will many times seek out tight places to hide. Motor housings and the surrounding environment are prime locations and as the cold of winter sets in, rodents will come inside looking for these exact locations. They generally offer warmth and moisture as well as a secure location to keep them protected from predators and the harsh season outside. These same locations also have a lot of hazards including electrical and mechanical parts which can end a small rodents life abruptly.
When rats or mice die in an appliance such as a refrigerator, a bad odor will usually alert the homeowner of it's presence. At that point the dead rodent should be found and removed. If it cannot be found and removed, treating the motor and other components of the appliance can be done with some NNZ ODOR NEUTRALIZER. This product can be sprayed lightly over the housing, compartment and surrounding area. With any luck it will trickle down into key voids or spaces where the dead animal is nestled. Expect to repeat treatments daily till the carcass is decomposed.
If you have other rodent questions, consult our online RAT CONTROL ARTICLE or call us troll free at 1-800-877-7290.
Filed under rodent odor by
I see the line of rodent zappers you carry but I don't think I need one this big. After reading your article I'm pretty sure I have mice and not rats in my kitchen. Do you have a scaled down smaller version for mice?
The RAT ZAPPER line will work fine on mice. If you are unsure of just what rodent is active in your home, we always suggest going with the larger size since it will usually work on any animal that can enter. If you are sure mice are active and have a limited area to deploy the device, go with the MOUSE ZAPPER. It will kill any mouse or shrew instantly and has an entrance that makes it pretty much impossible for non target animals to get inside. The following spotlight video goes over all the details you'll need to know to set one up.
Filed under traps by
I see rats running on my roof and want to trap them but I don't think they will work up there. The shingles are slippery and it's not flat. Can I use a one of our live traps effectively on my roof?
Live traps can be used most anywhere if the target animal is active and the trap is both secured and baited with something that will get the animal inside. The use of a live trap out in the open, where animals are foraging and running, can certainly work. The following image shows a good trap set on a slanted roof. In this situation, the targeted animals were leaving the attic from the corner so placement needed to be as close as possible to their exit hole.
The trap needed to be secured which can be done with nails or staples. The only warning here is that it's best to use silicone caulking when using anything to anchor the trap. Apply the silicone to the nail or screw when it's first installed. When the trap is removed, don't take out the nail or screw but instead drive it all the way in. The silicone previously applied will insure the hole is water tight and this practice will keep the roof water tight.
Filed under traps by
Is it possible to live trap rats in a tree?
Live traps can be set most anywhere when targeting rats. The most important factor seems to be whether the location is where they are willing to feed. If you suspect you have roof rats or some other rodent active in a tree, chances are high they are finding food on it making live trapping a possibility.
Roof rats will commonly forage on trees which yield nuts such as acorn, pecan and walnut. From these trees they'll find their way onto rooftops and then inside the structure. If you are seeing activity in trees close to the home, make some live trap sets to help thin the local population. Failure to remove and relocate local activity close to the home will undoubtedly lead to some getting inside. Once inside they'll be harder to control. This picture shows a good tree set made with one of our a live traps.
Good traps to use for this set include our 5×5x16GREEN, LT5518RD and our 3.5X3.5.24REPEATER. All these models can be strapped to branches using plastic cable ties, nails or screws. They can also be anchored with more elaborate mounts like the one pictured above. This is actually a bird feeder mount which serves as a great "ledge" on which to rest a cage trap. Use some PECAN PASTE along with a good quantity of the nuts the host tree yields when baiting. This combination will both enable the rodents to find the trap quickly and give them good reason to enter.
Filed under traps by
I am looking for mouse repellent for use in our substation and communications buildings.
Would probably use inside and outside.
How often does this product need to be reapplied?
Is this available in larger quantities?
MOUSE REPELLENT will generally last 1-3 months per application depending on the local environment where it's applied. Outside, it will usually dissipate over 1-2 months for sure. Even in dry climates. If the region where you plan on using it is moist or subject to a lot of rainfall, it may only last 1 month. If you intend on using it such a location, consider making the installation with GRANULE GUARDS to help protect the product and extend the length of time it's effective.
Inside applications out of direct rainfall and sunlight could last 3 months or longer. Be advised it will release a smell when used inside and can be detected but my guess is these substations aren't manned so it's probably not an issue.
The largest size currently is the 28 lb PAIL. But we also carry a snake repellent which has the same exact ingredients. This product is available in large 236 lb Tubs though we don't list this size on line in our cart. You can see the 28 lb pail and here are links to their respecitve labels:
As you can see, they are identical in composition. The large size is commonly acquired used by professionals who use it for various pest control services. It's the same exact material but just has a different target animal on the outside label. Cost per 236 lb tub is $400.00 but we do extend our 5% online ordering discount to call in orders for this big size which drops the price to $380.00 or $1.61 per lb compared to $3.39 per lb for the 28 lb tub.
Filed under mice by
I'm a previous purchaser, but need clarification before I make another purchase.
Products: Your web site shows two rat zappers; A) classic (822843) and B) Ultra (822851)
Questions:
1. Item A costs $50.00 each and B costs $65.00. Are the two units identical in size and construction?
2. Are the cases made out of plastic or metal?
3. If one rodent enters and is zapped, is the plate still charged and is capable of zapping a second rodent entering the enclosure?
4. Where is the bait placed?
Regarding the Classic Blue Rat Zapper #A that cost $50.00
5. Question: What are the advantages or disadvantages of buying the Classic versus the Ultra?
Appreciate if you provide answers that are keyed to each number of the questions posed: (1-5).
Thank your,
D.W.
Here are my answers…
1) The two units are close to being equal in size and shape. The Ultra, because it houses larger batteries, is slightly bigger and bulkier.
2) Mostly they are plastic with some metal inside. Mind you this is mainly for electrical current and not structurally needed.
3) Single "kill" at a time; once "contact" is achieved and the trap goes through it's electrical circuit cycle, it will effectively be "off". It will then need to be emptied and reset.
4) Bait is placed in the "back" of the device which is based on the fact that it only has one side entry point. To bait properly, lure will be placed through the side entrance and all the way to the back of the device onto a small "safe" area.
5) The Classic is the old original which runs on less power and is fine for small animals. If you have a multitude of animal sizes you will be targeting, the ability to use different batteries will enable you to use power based on target animals. The Ultra uses the larger, longer lasting batteries but this will be it's only choice of power. Quite frankly I see no reason why anyone would choose the Classic but if you are certain you'll only need either for "light" duty, the Classic will be do the job fine. But for commercial or high demand use, the Ultra is best suited.
Hope this helps but if not, please give us a call at 1.800.877.7290 and we'll be glad to discuss any more questions or concerns at that time.
Filed under traps by
I noticed some large droppings on my barbecue grill a few weeks ago. I didn't know what left them but I cleaned the grill out and was hesitatant to even use it. Then I found them again!! Whatever it is seems to like something up in the grill and is grossing me out thinking what they are doing on the grill. Do I need to throw it away and what would crawl up into my grill looking for food?
The droppings you are finding are most likely being left by a roof rat. As explained in our ROOF RAT CONTROL article, they are resourceful and will eat almost anything a human would eat. Additionally, the odor from any grill will surely lure roof rats active in the area to at least investigate what it is that smells so good. Roof rats commonly feed on nut trees and bird feeders and if any are close by are it highly likely they are in the vicinity. This means it will only be a matter of time before a rat or two made it's way to your grill and it sounds like this has happened already.
At this time I suggest you do a good inspection of the area to see where there might be a localized rodent population that's active. If this is on your property, I suggest you diminish the activity by using a LIVE TRAP. Failure to do so will almost certainly lead to more activity on the grill and ultimately activity in the home.
As for the grill, I would refrain from using it till the problem is resolved. You could spend some more time cleaning it but I'm afraid until you remove the local rodent activity, they'll just come back over and over thus contaminating the grill every time they walk over it. Rats carry a lot of disease and when they move on or around objects like grills they deficate and urinate to leave scent trails. So unless you remove them for good, the grill will just get contaminated over and over since the smell of food it releases will cause the rats to keep coming back. When you are sure the problem has been resolved, a good cleaning with the NNZ will remove the scent trails which in turn will make it a lot less likely that any rodents will find it so easily in the future. Of course you can throw it away but remember, if you don't keep the new one clean and free of odor, it too will attract rodent activity at some point.
Filed under roof rats by
You just have so many items and reading so I will simply ask a question. I have been having critters of unknown types chewing on my ac hoses under the house. They nest in and around the heating and cooling ducts and vents. I can not crawl under the house but is there something general I could use through a garden sprayer or apply to perimeter of house that wont wash away? Thanks for your help.
I suspect you have some kind of rat though it could be a shrew or vole. Without knowing for sure, making a specific recommendation is tough. That being said, there some things you can do.
First, you could treat the hoses and pipes with some 4-THE-BIRDS LIQUID which would effectively stop the chewing immediately. This product is odorless but something no animal can tolerate. Where applied, they will stay away.
Second, I would set some food out in the area like bird food or pet food (if you have a dog or cat, either of their food would suffice). If this "animal" takes the offering, I would then say to get a live trap to catch the ones living inside your home. Once these are removed, you could then find their access points and seal these holes up to prevent more of this animal from coming into your home. Clearly you have a problem with something entering and my guess is there is some kind of food motivating them to get inside. Trap out what you have now before you start sealing up entry points; once you are sure all the current ones active are removed you can do the closure needed to keep new ones from getting inside.
Please call on our toll free 1.800.877.7290 if you have further questions.
Filed under chewing by
I have pack rats eating my outdoor cushions. Can this be used on fabric without problems?
Clearly rats like to chew things as explained in our RAT CONTROL ARTICLE. This is quite normal out in the wild but when they are allowed to exist in close proximity to a building, chances are high that the building itself or something around or inside the building will become a "chew" target. My guess is there must be something close by which is luring them in like bird seed, pet food or some other abundant food source. If rats are frequenting your yard for food, chewing and gnawing will be a problem.
To stop them from chewing something specific, give it a good dose of ROPEL SPRAY. This bad tasting agent will get them to stop and move on to something more palatable. And take the time to treat anything else close by you think they might target. Likely objects rats like to chew include house siding, small trees, automobiles, garden hoses and most any yard furniture.
Ultimately you might have to either restrict the amoun of food available in the area to help cut down on the rat activity. If this can't be done, one of the trapping methods used to reduce the local population might be in order. Rats chewing furniture cushions isn't nearly as bad compared to what can happen once they target house wiring and other sensitive objects.
Filed under chewing by
hi, i just recently received a bunch of powder and various liquids from you all. i have thus far only used the aerosol cans for the removal of our aromatic friends the stink bug. i was telling my neighbor how wonderful the spray was working when he motioned me over and said, think they have anything for this?
something either mouse, rat or squirrel keeps eating the wiring harnesses on his truck and now his flat bed trailer. his work van and his wife's car, because of being driven daily, have not had this happen to date but who knows. i'm right next door have and several items that sit a good bit but haven't had an issue. that's why i am doing the correspondence; he didn't want whatever is doing this to read his e-mail.
There are several animals that could be doing this. The most common is the roof rat. They need to chew on things to grind their teeth as explained in our ROOF RAT CONTROL article. Radiator hoses, electric wiring and most any thin pipe or tube under a car hood has proven to be a likely target in our experience.
There are a few things that can be done to stop the problem. The simplest is to set out a LIVE TRAP up under the vehicles. Foraging rodents will find it, get caught and can then be relocated away from the property. Use our LOGANBERRY PASTE as bait and along with either bird seed or dog food, you'll quickly catch the culprit.
ULTRA SOUND is another good option. Set out the TRANSONIC every night and it will definitely keep any animal away. Use a timer to have it operate only during the night and you can have it be essentially automatic.
ROPEL or 4-THE-BIRDS LIQUID rubbed or sprayed on the wiring will also stop them. But these treatments aren't permanent and will have to be reapplied as needed.
Filed under animal by
I've got a dead rat in a drainage pipe that comes down from my rain gutters. I want to take the pipe down and remove the rat but I need something to spray for the dead body odor. What can I use?
The best product for this application would be the NNZ. It works great on dead body odor. Once the pipe is taken down and the rat removed, just pour 1 gallon of the mixed NNZ through the pipe. The odor will be gone pretty much instantly.
Filed under gutter by
